Bali(n).
Since my first day in Southeast Asia, I was never really alone for too long. I made great friends within the first couple of days and they stuck with me for the next 8 to 10 weeks. Decisions were made in sync with others. Experiences, ideas, and dreams were shared, but also costs and transportation hustles. Yes, I split sometimes to do trips on my own but never for too long. But after two and a half months into my travels, all my travel friends had left and gone back home. Everything changed and I had to adjust, plan, experience, feel, and eventually pay for everything myself.
Bali. I heard about it. I dreamed about it. So when I was thinking about my next destination, Bali seemed to be the perfect place to ease into my next phase of traveling.
Once I arrived at the Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar, I quickly learned that it is not so easy to book an Uber (or the Asian equal 'Grab') here. These apps are not illegal to use per se but frowned upon by the local taxi drivers. And if I say frowned upon, I mean verbal and physical attacks on drivers and sometimes on passengers, too. So if you want to make use of these services, which are reasonable due to the convenience, safety (knowing your driver and having a record of it on the world wide web), and financial aspect (it is much cheaper than local taxis), you have to weigh in that you might have to wait at the next corner and pretend you are waiting for a friend and somewhat avoid being seen by local eyes. This all sounds sketchy and shady, so you have to make a judgment call and see what you feel comfortable with (and what your budget allows). Did I know about this? No. Did I make it to my hostel safe and sound? Yes. After some hustle, I found a driver and made my way to Canggu, a little sophisticated village on the south coast. It's surrounded by terraced rice paddies and is known for its beaches with strong surf. On my way, my driver gave me some interesting facts about Bali. He told me that the majority of Balinese believe in Hindusim, the rest of the population splits between being Muslims, Buddhists, and Christians.
After checking in into my hostel Elements BnB, which is a quiet but comfy housing option, I made my way around the neighborhood. Canggu has countless cafes and restaurants, which offer delicious food, great coffee, and host the infamous digital nomads, who seem to be flocking here and here only. At the end of my stay in Canggu, I was a walking Zagat guide because I made sure to check out many restaurants and cafes.
I instantly met some lovely women in my hostel and we decided to visit Tanah Lot for sunset, a rock formation off the coast. It is home to the ancient Hindu pilgrimage temple Pura Tanah Lot. Unfortunately, it was raining, hot and humid, so the light was greyish, yet the views were still very impressive. As with all popular sights, the place was crowded with tourists, so I recommend going there early in the morning for sunrise. Lucky me there was an offering ceremony going on, so I witnessed a lot of traditionally dressed Hindus and took the opportunity to take some photos. It is common that locals often ask for photos with tourists, too. So I ended up returning the favor and proudly posed with beautifully dressed Balinese women.
The next days I indulged in fantastic food. For breakfast, you can choose between great places like Cafe Vida, which offers delicious and healthy breakfast plates (avocado, sautéed spinach, mushrooms, ham, beans, roasted tomatoes, sausages, couscous...) or Crate Cafe, an airy, bright, and comfortable chill-spot with great coffee and breakfast/lunch options. You cannot go wrong by having dinner at Warung Dandelion, a restaurant with the cutest interior design (#majorinspo), delicious food, and a very entertaining, charming owner, who makes sure that everyone feels comfortable in his establishment. Here I ordered the most popular Indonesian food, which ended up being my go-to dish for the rest of my time in Bali: Nasi Goreng - fried rice with chicken (or any other meat option). Another equally eligible dinner place would be Moana Fish Eatery. They offer exquisite seafood eats fused with western ingredients. I tried the fresh Ahi tuna, marinated with Indonesian herbs, cooked in a cream sauce, and lastly served with Italian pasta. For dessert, I could not resist the dragonfruit crepe with banana and strawberry slices, topped with vanilla ice cream. My mouth is watering again just by thinking about it!
If you feel really fancy go check out La Brisa, a beach club neighboring the sea and offering the most gorgeous views of the sunset over the sea. To chill there will cost you something though: They ask you to spend a minimum of 150-200K Indonesian Rupiah aka $10-15. Usually, I don't like places with that kind of a policy and attitude. But we walked for 20 minutes to get there and I was hungry - and yes, the view was just stunning. So I gave it a try. Fortunately, the food was really good: I again went with Ahi tuna on Chinese noodles, garnished with red onions, fresh chili peppers, red cabbage, carrots, parsley, and lemon. My choice of liquid was a dry white wine.
Bali is not the cheapest place, especially for Southeast Asia. So if you need to watch your budget, you should try one of the many local 'Warungs' (it stands for traditional Indonesian food). They offer incredibly cheap and delicious Indonesian food. At Warung Bu Mi I ordered a full plate of steamed broccoli & carrot, fried beans, tofu, chicken skewer, beef, corn, and potato patty, including my guilty pleasure drink 'Fanta Strawberry' for only $3.
On Sundays the Love Anchor market offers everything a hippy/trendy, Instagram-savy heart desires: from jewelry, linen clothes, basket bags to hand-crafted Bali-inspired souvenirs. When there (and in general when you go shopping), try to negotiate a good deal. They naturally pump up the prices for tourists - and yes, it is ok that we pay more than locals, but it should be still reasonable, right? Thanks to my extensive experiences in Turkish markets, I haggled accordingly and made some proper bargains while the vendor still made a profit.
To compensate for all the food intake, I tested my body balance in Arial Yoga at Serenity Eco Guesthouse. This type of yoga combines traditional yoga poses, pilates, and dance with the use of a hammock. It's fun and challenging at the same time.
After class, I treated myself to some very healthy, but yummy nutritions: a fresh-pressed juice called 'Blood Cleanser', containing beetroot, carrot, parsley, lemon, and ginger, and a chia seed bowl topped with dragon fruit, banana, cashew nuts, strawberries, shredded coconut and papaya, all served in a huge coconut.
Canggu's nightlife is not as crowded and crazy as Kuta's (Bali's primary resort town and particularly popular with Australians), but you get your fair share of levity. Bars like Old Man's and Pretty Poison Bar and Skate Park offer some pretty legit entertainment in that department. For the afterparty, most party-goers hit up the beach (around Sand Bar) and dance until the morning hours.
After Canggu, I made my way to Ubud. Ubud is called the 'cultural capital' of Bali. Located in the uplands it is known for its art scene (painting, dances, and many more), food, yoga, and mesmerizing nature including countless ride terraces.
For around $10 I hired a Grab driver to get me there and after a 1.5-hour ride I arrived at Griya Sugriwa Backpackers House, a very conveniently located, comfortable hostel, managed and owned by two lovely sisters. Every Sunday the sisters organize a family dinner, where they cook for the entire hostel delicious Indonesian food - for free! After three days at this hostel, I wanted to extend my stay, but unfortunately, they were fully booked. But there was no need to worry. Imelda, one of the sisters, immediately placed me in another wonderful hostel, which they help managing: Wayan Family Hostel. A little oasis in the middle of Ubud city. The rooms were separated by individual terraces, all circling around the pool and a little pond with Koi fishes in it. The hostel is owned by the sweetest family who also lives on the premises. I ended up staying here for about three weeks.
In Ubud, the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary is a must-see. You can watch and feed countless monkeys while walking through a serene rainforest. But be aware! These little trouble makers are really mischievous. You have to watch your belongings. They tend to jump on you if you get close, looking for food. If they grab something, like your water bottle, for example, do not fight them. They will bite you and then you'll have to deal with the risk of having rabies. I just stayed away from them and watched them from a safe distance.
When in Bali, I had to dare and rent a scooter. No more hopping on a friend's back and enjoying being a passenger. Note that I never rode a scooter before and all I knew was that the back brake is my friend and the front brake my enemy (thanks Mo!). But the roads were smooth and the traffic was not as dangerous. So I went for it. Luckily a group of people from my hostel was planning a trip to the Pura Ulun Danu Bratan temple in Tabanan, so for my first try, I was not alone. Encouraged by the fact that 6 out of 10 people in the group were first-timers too, I jumped straight into the adventure. We ended up riding 3-4 hours in heavy rain, taking on millions of curves up a mountain. Although challenging, I had so much fun and it felt so liberating to do something I was scared of doing so far.
On this trip, I met Terri from Tel Aviv. After she read about my mental journey leading up to my solo travels on my blog, we emerged in conversations about family, love, spirituality. It was lovely to meet her. Stay the strong, independent, and kind person you are, girl!
Another trip worth going on is the Campuhan Ridge Walk, a mellow hike through the lush, scenic fields with sweeping hilltop views. I was joined by Rachel from the States, who I met at the hostel. It was the first time that she went on a trip by herself, so we instantly connected and talked about solo travels and how it empowers one. On her last day, I accompanied her to get her very first tattoo, which reminded me of the question: When was the last time I did something for the first time?
In Ubud, I kept practicing yoga at the Yoga Barn. Here I was introduced to Yin and Yang Yoga: "It begins with a dynamic practice with an emphasis on breath and movement and concludes with a long cooldown of poses designed to open up the body physically and energetically." Especially in the 'yin' section, where poses are held for longer to energize and heal the body, I learned how gravity can open up parts of your body, which house so much tension. After each class, I felt more and more energized and I was ready to take on everything that came in my way.
One time, while sitting and waiting for the class to start, a man sat next to me and struck up a conversation with me. He first introduced himself and then we started talking about where we from, how long we have been traveling already, and how it all feels like. It was the first time that he is so far away from home (the US) for such a long time (about three weeks) and that he had to ask his personal yoga teacher and friend to join him because he couldn't have done it by himself. He was very impressed that I was traveling by myself. After the yoga class, he wished me good luck and we separated ways. It turned out that the man himself was no one else than Run DMC’s Russell Simmons.
For breakfast, I usually made use of the free offerings at the hostel, but sometimes for a change, I went to Seniman Coffee Studio. I drank proper Americanos and savored their delicious dragon fruit smoothie bowl with cacao nibs, chia seeds, goji berries, and “seniman” crunch. You can also come here for dinner and drinks. They make a mean gin and tonic with a generous amount of gin in it. One night I met and chatted with a Danish gentleman and his female companion. He lived in Ubud already for four years. I mentioned Pai at one point and he confirmed that he lived there for three months, but indeed liked it better in Ubud, due to the open-mindedness of Balinese people. One statement he made got stuck in my mind: He said that in the Western world we all live for tomorrow, here in Bali we live for today, in the now.
When visiting Bali, watch out for the monsoon season. I visited this beautiful island during the rainy time and while it is still hot and beautiful, it limited my experience. I had only one dry day in four weeks.
Despite the wet season, life threw me a huge bone: For two weeks I got to spend my time working for a promotional shoot for my sister's and brother-in-law's company Wool & Oak. For their latest Kickstarter campaign, they were looking to shoot a video somewhere abroad. Since I was here, I acted as a producer, director, scout, actress, caterer, and organizer of the shoot. Juggling four models, one videographer, ten locations, and the moody Balinese weather was certainly not a walk in the park, but I got to see beautiful sights and gained priceless experience. Put that on my resume, mister! The result was beautiful and I was proud as a peacock about my achievements.
Last but not last least: A huge shoutout to the super friendly and incredibly beautiful Balinese people. They were not just straight gorgeous but also so helpful and generous. Thank you and see you soon again!