When a person turns 90 years old, attention must be paid. And if she throws a party, you pack your bags and head straight to the airport.

Destination: Bogotá, Colombia.

With my sister and brother-in-law in tow, I arrived at El Dorado International Airport and we were picked up to go to our Hotel Exe Bacata 95, a four-star hotel for the total price of $200 p.p. for seven nights (breakfast included). We were a little skeptical due to the very cheap deal but once we checked in we couldn't believe what we got for the price. A very clean and comfy hotel, offering a gym and a pool on the rooftop.

Bogotá is situated at an altitude of 2,640 meters (8,660 feet) above sea level. After La Paz in Bolivia and Quito in Ecuador, Bogotá is the third-highest capital city in the world. And altitude sickness is real! Lack of breath, slight dizziness, and fatigue are unfortunately on your agenda. The locals came up with a word for the overwhelming feeling of unaccustomed visitors: “soroche”. But fear not, there are many cures, such as black coffee and aguapanela (brown sugar melted into boiled water, with squeezed lemon). If that fails, a shot of aguardiente, a local aniseed-flavored spirit made from sugar cane, should do the trick.

The weather in Bogotá is pretty much the same all year due to its close proximity to the equator - mild yet fresh. I was warned to bring a jacket and an umbrella with me, which were very useful because the temperature can drop unexpectedly and rain can start at any time. 

One of our first stops in the city was the infamous Gold Museum 'Museo del Oro'. Housing more than 55,000 pieces of gold, is the biggest display of gold artifacts in the world. A must-see!

Not far from there is the 'Museo de Botero'. Fernando Botero is one of Colombia's most famous artists and sculptors. Born in Medellín, his signature style, also known as "Boterismo", shows people and figures in large, exaggerated volume, which can represent political criticism or humor, depending on the piece. His art can be found all around the world, such as Park Avenue in New York City and the Champs-Élysées in Paris. In 2000, Botero donated to the Museo Botero in Bogotá 123 pieces of his work and 85 pieces from his personal collection, including works by Chagall, Dalí, and Picasso.

These museums are all in the area called La Candelaria. A historic neighborhood in the city's downtown area, it is the equivalent to the Old City in other cities. The architecture of the old houses, churches, and buildings has Spanish Colonial, Baroque, and art deco styles. It is home to several universities, libraries, and museums. But most importantly it gloriously shows off the capital's blooming graffiti and street art scene.

It was the death of a young artist, shot by a policeman in 2011, which sparked a new tolerance of street art that has exploded in Bogotá. 16-year-old Diego Felipe Becerra was spray-painting his signature wide-eyed Felix the Cat image on the walls of an underpass when he was killed. The outcry over the incident – and over a police attempt to portray Becerra as a suspected armed robber – led to graffiti protests across the city as well as the arrest of two police officers. 
Today the authorities promote the practice of graffiti in Bogotá as a form of artistic and cultural expression while at the same time defining surfaces that are off-limits, including monuments and public buildings. Some artists criticize "It's the eternal paradox of street art. [...] Being told where you can paint goes against the spirit of graffiti." Yet Bogotá became somewhat of an “international mecca for street artists." 

We booked a free tour through 'Bogota Graffiti Tour'. Despite a heavy downpour, I enjoyed the stories behind some of the murals and learned a thing or two about street art. I highly recommend it and I mean, it's for free!

One important thing to know about the downtown area, and in general the city, is that it has become fairly safe yet still caution is required, especially after certain hours and in some areas. We were warned to avoid empty streets, put our valuable stuff in bags or leave them at home altogether. Also never hail a taxi on the streets. They are known for being unsafe and majorly ripping off their customers. Apps like Uber or designated drivers from your hotel are recommended. Public transportation is unfortunately unreliable and not sufficient.

When in Bogotá, a visit to 'Andres Carne de Res' should be on your to-do list. Located an hour outside of Bogotá, Andrés Carne de Res is a rambling 7-square-kilometer (2.8-square-mile) restaurant that encompasses 11 dining areas, two dance floors, more than five kitchens, and a climbing wall. Described as “Alice-in-Wonderland meets Moulin Rouge”, this restaurant is a mind-boggling trip of bright lights and theatrical service. Now it is definitely on the pricier side, but the portions are bigger than anywhere else. E.g. drinks start at $15-$20, but you basically get 2-for-1 since the glasses are huge. Have a kid with you? No problem. After giving you and your kid matching bracelets (like the ones you get at concerts or festivals), you can drop off your kiddo at one of many playgrounds. If your kid tries to leave the premises alone or without the proper parent, the bouncers will keep the kid company until the rightful parents arrive.

Since my visit to Cartagena in December 2016, I was craving to eat 'Pandebono' (Colombian cheese bread) and fresh empanadas again. Every day one of these two was on my menu. And this is a friendly reminder to not miss out when you are in Colombia. You're welcome! 

Besides delicious pastries, you can eat incredibly good food in Bogotá. While there I casually brunched at Masa and Oma, had fantastic Italian food at Luna, reminisced about my recent Asian travels while indulging in Vietnamese delicacies at Wok, and enjoyed super yummy seafood at Central Cevicheria. 
My need for proper local food I satisfied among others at a restaurant in Zipaquira. This area is known for its subterranean Salt Cathedral, a church in a vast salt mine featuring the Stations of the Cross carved out of rock salt. On your way to the salt mine, you pass many restaurants known for their meat. From blood sausages to dry-aged beef, fresh chicken to cured steak, you get your fair share of proteins. I also visited the salt mines, but beware: The mines are about 200m underground and 2km long. It is not a good idea for claustrophobic peeps. If you are good to go, you'll witness an old and new cathedral, carved into the mine, museums, a salt dome, and some pretty cool light installations.

The best Colombian food I ate at Abuelita's house though, my brother-in-law Johnathan's grandmother. She is the best cook, hands down! My favorites were Ajiaco, a chicken and potato soup, and the fresh ham with homemade apple sauce. The red-colored drink you see in the pictures is called refajo, Colombia's version of beer-and-soda mix.

Abuelita's birthday party was the main reason we all traveled south. So when the big day came we all dressed up in our best clothes and headed to the 'Gun Club', a club, which only recently allowed women to be part of it. These old members-only clubs are no joke: a tie, (suit) jacket, socks for men are required at all times. At one point Johnathan tried to take off his leather jacket, which was reluctantly accepted as a blazer replacement, and immediately an attentive waiter came and reminded him of the dress code. It was very interesting to observe this place, which smelled of aristocracy and wealth. And I was in the middle of all of it. With my multi-colored vintage shoes, wearing my hair down. Without thinking (and caring) too long if I fit in or not, I grabbed some champagne and started the night of dancing, eating, filled with teary-eyed speeches for the incredible woman of the hour and a lot of drinking.

PS At this point I'm pretty sure that this is the formula of living long and staying sharp: socializing, dancing, early eating, drinking, and most importantly not stressing about everyone else's business.

Muchas gracias, Bogotá! Salud a una experiencia increíble.