A beautiful and enchanting city on the Northern coast of Colombia - Bienvenido a Cartagena!
After a 4 1/2 hour direct flight from New York, we arrived at Rafael Núñez International Airport, the northern part of Cartagena. We took a 15-minute Uber drive - yes, start singing 'Uber everywhere' - to our rental apartment in Bocagrande (translated: Big Mouth), an area surrounded by public beaches and countless white skyscrapers, popping up from the ground like mushrooms. After changing into lighter clothes - winter in NYC, hot humid summer weather in Cartagena hence the clothes change - we decided to cheer on some well-deserved off-time with some local rum, the 8 years old Ron Medellin Añejo. Let the good times begin!
Cartagena is a port, heavily influenced by the ascending Caribbean culture, with a historic center called 'Downtown' or 'Centro', which preserved its colonial architecture and is surrounded by the 11km long 'las murallas' - the walls. The walls are over 200 years old and took over 200 years to build to protect the city.
I traveled here mainly for a family wedding. So I was lucky to have a local connection, which made it easier (and safer) to get around.
Ride in style = Traveling on the back of a truck.
In the days leading up to the wedding, we checked out the public beach and the Downtown area. The public beaches around Bocagrande are not dreamy white beaches or full of palm trees, but it is a beach, and for a summer-deprived person that just worked fine for me. The ocean water is warm, and the waves are strong. The beach is made of volcanic sand that is why it has a grayish color.
While relaxing at the beach and soaking up the sun, be prepared for being pursued by hundreds (yes, I'm not exaggerating) of beach vendors: tunics, shirts, necklaces, bracelets, massages, drinks, and food from crabs to fruits to baked goods. You name it! Whatever your heart desires, they have it. And unfortunately a simple 'no' is not enough, but I got a hold of it and I learned to blend it out after a while.
I fell in love with the historic center aka Downtown, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a place that catapults you to a different era. Beautiful, colorful buildings, old churches, and towers. Its streets are filled with equally colorfully dressed locals, tourists, and street vendors. Just to walk around here is visually and culturally so satisfying.
One of my favorite places to stop and unwind was the bar 'El Baron', a bar on the San Pedro Claver Square and next to the church San Pedro Claver, with fantastic drink offerings. While sitting outside on the square, having a well-mixed drink, I witnessed romantic weddings, brides in carriages, and the infamous fruit vendors, the women known as Las Palenqueras.
To start our days right we were looking for a healthy option. Close to our apartment in Bocagrande, we found this amazing wrap and juice place, called Gokela. We liked it so much, we ended up having our breakfast or lunch there almost every day. Everything is fresh and organic, the best of local vegetables and fruits.
The days before the wedding (a little reminder of why I was there in the first place) we met up with some friends and family. The family of the bride hosted a get-together and welcoming dinner on one of the nights before the wedding. Their house was beautifully designed by the father of the bride himself. That night we also met other family members and friends of the couple. The gathering was completed with a dapper-dressed waiter, maids, and a full bar.
While having living-in maids is everything else than normal to me, it is not that unusual in Colombia. To quote Colombian actress Sofia Vergara: "Listen, I didn't know how to make coffee when I came to the United States. Because in Colombia the maids do it."
The night before the wedding we met up with the groom's family. At Baluarte San Francisco Javier, the first pit stop was a bar with a gorgeous view, located on the Las Murallas. After enjoying a perfect sunset, we moved to our second stop: Dinner at Alma, a fine-dining restaurant in a beautiful setting, offering delicious food, but more on a pricier side. Our next and last (but not least) stop for the night was the club La Movida with all the siblings of the groom. A couple of tequila and whiskey shots later, we were beyond the stage of warming up our moves for the wedding day. One last shindig before we sent off the groom to the land of married bliss.
Did I mention how cheap it is here for a Westerner? Please note that this statement comes from someone who lives in New York, where drinks are regularly $12-$15 and dinner starts at a minimum of $30. Here, drinks are way under $10, dining at a fine 5-star restaurant does not cost you more than $20.
The wedding ceremony was at the church San Pedro Claver, the same church, where the bride's parents got married almost three decades ago. Cue in the singing: Love is in the air! The wedding started with a beautiful ceremony at the church. Since it was held in Spanish, I - who only knows rudimentary Spanish (I’m working on it!) - didn't understand much. Until the groom uttered the words "I do" in English and chugged the holy wine. Hello Mr. Husband, you may now kiss Mrs. Wife!
After the ceremony, the party was moved down the block to a wedding venue. We cheered, learned some new Spanish dance moves, drank tons of mojitos, champagne, shots of whiskey, and ate delicious food. I love weddings and I love a good party. And as it goes every one of my friends and family pushed me into catching the bouquet. I guess they wanted another epic wedding party soon, but sorry boys, not so soon! I left the bouquet to another lucky girl. But that didn't hold me back from dancing the night away. A special thank you to a couple of groomsmen for the dances ;) I danced so much and hard that I had bruises all over my feet. Marks, I didn't mind having a great, fun night.
The next day the family of the bride invited us to a gorgeous Finca, an hour outside of Cartagena. Family and friends jumped onto a minibus and off we went. Once there, we were greeted with some of the best local food and drinks an urban farm could offer. Arepas filled with egg and ground beef, cheese, and some delicious local fruits. Fresh produce straight from the farm itself. The main house of the farm looked like a giant hut. I spent the day drinking lemonade and Club Colombia, swimming in the pool, watching majestic horses, and laying in hammocks. A beautiful day!
After relaxing a day or two from the excitements of the last week - no spring chicken here anymore - I was ready to channel my inner Dora the Explorer to discover more of Cartagena.
One of the food highlights I discovered, besides arepas con huevos, empanadas, and the local fruit 'Granadilla', was 'Pandebono', a Colombian cheese bread. A salty soft bun with a sharp cheese flavor served warm. I could have eaten hundreds of them. Another upper was the restaurant El Gobernador By Rausch. It was the best restaurant experience. They have unbelievably delicious food, starting from the various bread and butter they offer, to amazing entrees, finalized with creatively presented desserts, all equally delicious. All the high praise to the young female chef from Medellin, who is not only an awesome cook but was also pregnant while working hard. I was glad to meet her and to tell her in person that she rocks.
We also spent Christmas in Cartagena. While celebrating Christmas in a hotel is not ideal, the most important thing was that we got to do it with family. A special shoutout to Abuelita, my brother-in-law's grandmother. A 90-year old, super stylish, honest, caring, and sharp woman, who is ruthless when it comes to playing Rummikub :)
The rest of my days I spent swimming in the ocean, chilling around the pool, drinking Piña Coladas, and strolling in the historic center, discovering new corners on every visit.
I also had the chance to visit Castillo San Felipe de Barajas, an almost 500-year old fortress. It is striking for its grand entrance and its complex maze of tunnels. When I entered the tunnels, I made it through a couple of lefts and rights before my anxiety took over. The heat was unbearable in the narrow tunnels. So I quickly escaped before I turned into a steamed chicken.
Visually, Cartagena was the perfect destination for a photographer. Culturally, it was an all-rounder experience for my traveler's heart. All in all, I had such a blast. It was the best way to end the year. Muchas gracias a todos, who was part of this trip!