As I was thinking about my next destination after Bangkok, I decided to listen to fellow wanderers and see what they recommend or where they are going next. The consensus was that the next sensible stop should be Chiang Mai, a city in mountainous northern Thailand, a blissfully calm and laid-back place to relax and recharge ones’ batteries.
There are several ways to get to the North. You could fly (fastest option), take a day or night bus/train (12-hour-trip). I read somewhere that you should take a day-train at least once in Thailand, to see the rural landscape. So I did. After four hours into the ride, I've seen enough of the landscape and the ride became quickly boring. Thankfully after eight hours in, I met the sweetest Thai girl, who sat next to me. Her name was Kartae, 20 years old and studies English. Eager to talk to me in English, we immediately were engrossed in a nice chat. Kartae has never left Thailand so far but would like to go to Russia. Being not the most usual choice, I asked why and she promptly responded "because I like architecture." Knowing from some architecture friends that Russian cities are the place to go for studying, I understood her response.
Arriving in Chiang Mai in the evening, I made my way to the hostel. After checking in, I immediately noticed the lack of atmosphere. No one around in the common area, no socializing, no vibe. I thought maybe my roommates will be cool. So I grabbed my bag and walked upstairs. On my way up I met a guy on the stairs, who noticed my NY Yankees hat, and asked me if I am from New York. I answered that I lived there for several years, hoping to open a conversation. “Ah so you’re not from New York, you’re just wearing the hat?” was his dismissive response - ending the shortest conversation so far. Entering my room, the girls there were less chatty than the guy on the stairs and did not even acknowledge my arrival in the room. I knew that this is not going to work out. But it was already late and I was going to meet my friend Steffi from New York, who happened to be in Chiang Mai too. So let’s have a drink and forget - for now.
The next morning I met up with my travel friend from Bangkok, Claudine, who booked a tour for us to one of the many elephant sanctuaries. On my way there I was searching for a new hostel. After dismissing some options, I heard that the guys I met in Bangkok were staying at Hug Hostel, so I checked the availability and bingo! Relieved that I found someplace else to stay, I was ready to focus on meeting those magical animals.
In general, I had mixed feelings about the sanctuaries, but I guess I wanted to see them for myself. Being up close to the elephants was an incredible experience. They were so beautiful and majestic. Yet, critically, these elephants of course are not free. They are bound to trees during some parts of the day, forced to deal with a bunch of tourists like me. According to the sanctuary owners, they were rescued from abusive owners and allegedly are used to humans. If they were to set the elephants free, like really free, they would send them back to captivity because elephants are regular subjects of abduction. It’s obviously a complicated and complex issue. But I would not visit another sanctuary again.
Back in the city I moved hostels and reunited with the peeps from Bangkok. Considering that I met these guys under the influence on a night out at Khao San Road, it took a second to remember names. We really connected here in Chiang Mai. Danny for example was working on some of his “thai”lapses (time-lapse videos) when I caught him in the common room and we started chatting about the background music he uses in his videos. Right away we allied in our love for modern classical music from Ludovico Einaudi to Hans Zimmer and the admiration for spiritual teachers like Eckart Tolle. He also introduced me to another philosopher and speaker Alan Watts. Much appreciated, Danny!
Altogether with the crew, we decided to go to the Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, which is a temple up on a hill. While I’ve already seen some temples, this one particularly invited me to sit and just observe. Why? I don't know. My feet took me into the temple, and I sat down right in front of a Buddha statue made out of emerald and started observing the happenings around me. At one point Mo joined me in my solitude and we began to talk. He told me about his life before and after his travels, with its up and downs. Amazed by how open he was, I enjoyed listening to him and exchanging thoughts. Just like Louis' and Rick’s story, I thought "Louis, I think this is the start of a wonderful friendship.”
After a couple of days, everyone parted ways and I stayed in Chiang Mai. There was one thing I really wanted to see and experience: the Karen village of the long-necked women. I didn’t know how to get there, so I booked a tour through Chiang Rai which took me to the white temple Wat Rong Khun, the blue temple Wat Rong Seua Ten, and the Baan Dam (Black House). The temples and museums, again, were mesmerizing and also very different from the traditional style, which was no coincidence since they were designed by contemporary artists.
Our last stop was the village of the long-necked women. I expected an open village where I can just visit and roam, talk to locals. But I was taught the better when I had to pay an entrance fee just to get in. Once I was in, I focused on the people. I was happy to meet those women and talk to them. Luckily it was tranquil, so I had space and time to engage with some of the women. Especially the young women impressed me. They were so friendly, kind, and radiated light. At one point though, when I asked questions to the young girls, I noticed how my tour guide kept a close eye on me. It’s important to know that these women and their families are refugees from Myanmar. They are neither allowed to leave the village nor to work anywhere else, as I was told later. They make a living by selling hand-made souvenirs. The admission fees to the village go to the tour operators. In hindsight, the whole place seemed staged and in many ways forced. A show with real people for the tourists. Many of these realizations came admittedly later because in the midst of this farce I was welcomed with open arms and warmness by the Karen women.
On a second trip to Chiang Mai, I participated in a cooking class at Smile Organic Farm Cooking School. Thanks to our fabulous host Lei we learned to cook Pad Thai most entertainingly and hilariously, all kinds of Curries, spring rolls, and traditional soups. At this point, I challenge anyone to compete with my Green curry. Bring it!
In the evening I recommend checking out the Ladyboy Cabaret Show located in the Night Bazaar. It starts at 9:30 pm and is an hour-long soiree featuring very convincing Jennifer Lopez and Rihanna imitators. Gentlemen beware: If you are not easy-minded about being dragged off to the stage and get a free lap dance, sit in the back and hide. After this show, you should head to Ram bar for another Ladyboy show. Why? Because these Ladies know how to get down and put together a show. Period. Just be careful with the little pond in the back of the Ram bar. I got too excited and *whoops* landed in the pond with half of my body while scratching my arm trying to hold on to something. Oh well!
If you want to do some exercise mixed with cultural experience, go on a tour through the Doi Inthanon National Park. It takes you to a cloud forest, the king’s and queen’s pagodas, and a hike through the national park, passing waterfalls to the White Karen village, where you can drink locally harvested freshly brewed coffee. When I went there, it was cloudy and rainy, which created a mystical mist, especially in the cloud forest. So each weather conditions are worth visiting.
From Chiang Mai, it is a stone’s throw to Pai. Oh, Pai! It is the most laid-back town in northern Thailand, close to Myanmar’s border. It sits in a valley on the banks of the Pai River and is known for its nearby gorges, hot springs, bamboo trail, and waterfalls. We hopped on a scooter and just explored the beautiful nature. One of my favorite ventures was to jump into the hot springs after a breezy ride (although, admittedly, coming out of the hot water and facing the fresh air was a bit challenging).
In the town, you’ll find yourself choosing between many restaurants, food stalls, and handicraft shops on Pai's Walking Street.
Pai holds a special place in my heart. I went there over New Year’s Eve and was joined by friends Viki, Yaron, Danny, and Brian. The vibe in this town is just pure magic. If you want to relax and get away from a pretentious world, come here.
While there I heard the devastating news that my grandmother passed away. Being far away from home, yet having such caring individuals with me, helped me tremendously to process this loss. Especially the Pai Canyon, where I was whisked away to disconnect for a while, was the perfect environment to go to after news like that.
For entertainment, you cannot do better than Mojo Cafe Pai. A jazz and blues bar with fabulous live music. We went there every night. Lean back and enjoy freakin’ good music while sipping on a nice drink. Welcome to the good life, my friends!
For food, we mostly chose between many street food stands, but for breakfast, we either went to Pai Siam (bagels, eggs benedict, sandwiches, etc.) or Big’s Little Cafe, which is an awesome little place with delicious food. Here you can watch the chef how he prepares your dish while sitting right next to him at the bar counter.
Pai! I promise, I’ll be back, but for my next stop, I’ll take you to Krabi.