In December 2019 I finally made it to India. We started in New Delhi, headed over to Agra, moved on to Varanasi, flew cross country to Jaipur, and finished in Jodhpur. In previous posts, I talked about how I feel about India - before and after my trip -, how I prepared myself for this trip, which cities I visited, what I saw and experienced in these places.
Ah, Agra. Home to the magnificent Taj Mahal, inspiration for Disney’s Aladdin, and much more than that.
To get to Agra we took our first train ride. And I highly recommend the unique experience. Trains are one of the most popular transportation in India. The Indian Railways route length network is spread over 115,000 km, with 12,617 passenger trains each day serving 23 million travelers from 7,349 stations daily (Source: IBEF). We made sure that we booked seats in an upper-class carriage. Not because we are snobs, but because it is safer and more comfortable. Once arrived at the Hazrat Nizamuddin railway station, we were able to quickly locate the right track. Our train was already there, but we initially had difficulties finding the correct carriage according to our ticket. So we asked some railway staff members and they helped us in the right direction. Here I will recommend downloading the app “Trainman”. It is an absolute magical tool, helping you with live updates about your train, whether it will be late or on time. It also has a blueprint of the train, so you can check if your carriage is in the front of the end of the train and this way locate your wagon easier.
Stepping into the train, the first thing I noticed was the trash on the floor at the entrance. Collected from the carriages the trash is dumped at the door area.
Finding my seat was the real challenge - and fun experience at once. The hallway between the tiers is super narrow and full of passengers trying to find their seats. I had to climb over luggage and push (gently and kind, yet firm) my way free to get to my seat. Once I sat down, I actually laughed to myself. Our seats and the sitting area were super clean and comfortable. Mine and I had a whole bench for ourselves, so we stretched out our legs and enjoyed the ride. Every now and then chai and food sellers walked by, announcing themselves softly throughout the carriages. And one of our seat neighbors gave us a free concert of his loudest and extensive snores’ repertoire. Exquisite! After 2.5 hours we arrived in Agra and hopped quickly into an Uber to get to our homestay.
Where we stayed at
Coral Court Homestay: First we walked into the wrong homestay - sorry, but the first one is named Coral House Homestay and ours was Coral Court Homestay, so you can see the confusion here. Once we found the right one, we were in awe how beautiful it was. Coral Court is owned by a young family. The interior was designed and furnished by the wife. Every detail, each piece and color was individually, perfectly chosen. The man of the house welcomed us and gave us a quick intro. The staff here was incredibly friendly and smiley. Every time we walked by the reception or restaurant area we were greeted with the biggest smile and the question “Do you need anything? Can I help you with something?” We booked a private room with an ensuite bathroom for two nights and breakfast was included. The room was comfortable and clean, and had its own balcony access. Again, the furniture was charming and I couldn’t stop myself gushing over it.
Where we ate
My divine dinner at Pinch of Spice.
Pinch of Spice: For our first night in Agra we went to this somewhat upscale restaurant. It was highly recommended by Mine’s travel guide and Michael, a new friend we met in Delhi. Hands down, it was one of the best dining experiences of my life. Yes, that good. Serving Chinese, Indian, Asian cuisine, the restaurant was all around outstanding. The staff was attentive and friendly, but the food took the crown. I ordered “Murg Boti Masala”, chicken in rich spicy tomato gravy, and garlic naan. It was finger-licking good. I would totally come back here again.
Bob Marley: As good as our last dinner experience was, this was, unfortunately, a real downer. This establishment serves Indian and Asian dishes, and I ordered green curry with cheese and garlic naan. The curry was oozing with oil and tasted stale. The naan was also greasy and burned at the same time. The chai was delicious though.
Despite the reviews online, I would not come here again.
Side story: To get to our homestay after dinner we were looking for a tuk-tuk, but only rickshaws were available. So we eventually agreed with a rickshaw rider. But the roads were impossible and we were stuck so many times, that the rider dismounted and went on pushing us through the dark streets. We could not allow this, stopped him, gave him part of the agreed fare, and walked quickly through the dark streets, which was one of the very few times we risked to walk alone in the darkness.
Breakfast at Coral Court Homestay: After we visited the Taj Mahal for sunrise we returned to our homestay just in time for our free morning meal. It consisted of your choice of eggs, chutney, fresh juice, coffee, Indian pastry with curry filling, toast, butter, and jam. Simple, yet fulfilling and satisfying.
Sheroes Hangout: I didn’t make it here, but their important cause is worth mentioning. It's the world's first café run by female acid attack survivors. Having a bite and a chai here supports the brave women, who deal with their situation gracefully after being viciously attacked by their own fathers, by rejected men, jealous family members, or friends. And the café has since branched out from food and drink: It now houses a library, art gallery, and an activism center.
What we did and saw
Taj Mahal: Do I need to say more? I actually do want to. We woke up at 4:30 am, after initially sleeping through our alarm at 4 am. Basically, we jumped out of bed, got ready in 20 minutes, and headed out around 5 am. Thanks to the location of our homestay we were able to walk (!) to the Taj. It was still super dark, so we first turned the wrong way and walked down the wrong alley. The darkness and emptiness of the streets creeped me out a little, but we quickly found our way and entered the lit-up road. I was hooked. The main street to the Taj, closed to cars and only accessible via tuk-tuks or on foot, has light bases on each side and was well paved with red stones. It was a taste of what was about to come.
Although it was only early in the dawn, the area was already packed with many people. This did not take away from the awe I felt when I walked through the gate and got the first look at the World Wonder in front of me. I was speechless. The Taj Mahal is truly magnificent. The incredible mausoleum, which was built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan to house the tomb of his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died at childbirth, raises like a mirage and demands your full attention. The white marble creates pure magic and puts a spell on you at the same time. I was taken. Despite the cold and no sun in sight, we spent about three hours here before returning to our homestay.
Get a tuk-tuk for a tour (for about 700-900 INR) around Agra, which includes the following sights, which are worth to be seen:
Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb: Affectionately known as the Baby Taj, this tomb looks like a mini version of the grand Taj Mahal. The sight itself is not as crowded as the Taj, but also shows a beautiful display of interesting architecture and ornaments. While touring the building, a guard approached me and insisted on showing me the ornaments with the help of his flashlight. He didn’t speak any English. After showing me only two ornaments, he gestured to me to give him some money.
Agra Fort: This was the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal Dynasty until 1638 when the capital was shifted from Agra to Delhi. This is an impressive red sandstone fort with views over the whole city. The entrance hall for hosting guests was so impressive - beautiful white marble and many columns - I told Mine that I not only want the affection of building a Taj-like monument, but also an entrance hall like this. Talk about high standards lol.
Mehtab Bagh: Translates to “Moonlight Garden”. Located on the banks of the Yamuna River, this is a garden on the opposite side of the river from the Taj Mahal. When Shah Jahan wanted the Mehtab Bagh, he wanted the garden exclusively for himself. He wanted to watch the reflections of the Taj in the water and also enjoy the view of the Yamuna River.
Booking a tour with a tuk-tuk almost always includes a stop at one of the driver’s associates aka pashmina scarves vendor or market vendors. Although we assured that we do not intend to shop our driver explained to us that it would benefit him if we just have a look. So we did. And yes, I bought a scarf. One because I needed something to cover up from the cold and two I felt like it would get us out of there faster since none of us were really interested. I know, I know, you probably think “that’s how they get you”, but I did not mind since I needed to bundle up against the cold weather and it also helped the nice driver and his friend, who went above and beyond to show us their Agra. If they would have been greedy, sleazy, bad guides, I would have been upset. But they were impeccable thus I was happy.
People of Agra
While in Agra I did many photos of its people. They are very friendly when it comes to taking photos. If I wanted to take a close-up portrait I always asked for permission and most of the time gave a little something in exchange.
