In December 2019 I finally made it to India. We started in New Delhi, headed over to Agra, moved on to Varanasi, flew cross country to Jaipur, and finished in Jodhpur. In previous posts, I talked about how I feel about India - before and after my trip -, how I prepared myself for this trip, which cities I visited, what I saw and experienced in these places.
Varanasi - often called the spiritual capital of India, is the Mecca of Hinduism.
Pilgrims from all over the world come here to take a bath in the sacred Ganges river in the belief that it would wash away their sins and grant redemption. For many Hindus it is the last station in the earthly life: Devotees come to die here and to be cremated in the city, in the hope to end the cycle of reincarnation after their ashes are taken by the holy Ganges water and to seek nirvana. It is home to the Sadhus - holy people, who have renounced the worldly life and often live next to the cremation ghats. Buddha is believed to have founded Buddhism here around 528 BCE. It is one of the oldest existing cities in the world after Damascus, Aleppo, Athens, Gaziantep, Jerusalem, Erbil (among others)- around 3000 years old. Visually, it is one of the most striking and culturally authentic places on earth.
It is said that Varanasi is a shock to the system and many recommend going there after seeing other, more metropolitan, Indian cities first. When we announced our visit to Varanasi, a couple of locals grinned and said “Oh, that’s going to be interesting.”
Sleeper Bus to Varanasi aka highway through hell
But let me tell you first about how Mine, Soi, and I got there. We booked an overnight sleeper bus from Agra to Varanasi since all trains were sold out. The bus was supposed to pick us up from the local ticket shop at midnight, but they told us that the bus is not allowed to drive into the city due to pollution, so the bus company ordered two tuk-tuks for us, four passengers, to drive us to the outskirts of the city. I knew that they try to control the damaging pollution in Agra, especially because of the Taj Mahal, but I did not completely understand how much of a difference it makes if the bus avoids entry into the city tbh. If it helps, of course, why not. Although tuk-tuks are releasing exhaust, too. And we took two of them…
Once they picked us up, a weird and exhausting adventure began. The tuk-tuks drove us for an hour in freezing weather conditions on the highway out of the city and dropped us off in the middle of nowhere next to a gas station restaurant. Due to language barriers, no one explained to us, where we should wait, how long, and how we would recognize the right bus. Confused and freezing, we took our bags into the restaurant to sit down at a table, when a man came to us and gestured to sit in the little room next to the restaurant. We were not allowed to sit in the common room. First I thought its a gender separation issue, but we saw a woman sitting with her husband in the very same room. So not sure what happened there…
Outcasted, confused, and anxiety-ridden at that point, I started talking to another male passenger, who happens to speak English. After telling him our destination, he assured me that he would let us know when the right bus arrives. I was feeling a little bit better. The bus came after an hour. And oh boy, what a sight. From the outside, it looked proper and safe, the inside was equipped with horizontal cabins, two on top of each other, each one for two or more passengers. The hallway was not wider than my (!) shoulder width. Our cabin was in the back of the bus and we had to climb up to a tight little room that was waiting for Mine and me. It was a sleeper bus, so sitting straight-up was not possible. After tucking into my sleeping bag (again, best purchase ever!) and putting on my headphones, I tried to snooze away. Eight hours of bumpy roads and constant honking were ahead of us. And this bus did not have the traditional, classic honk, no he had a long, going-up-and-down-and-up honking, like a donkey on speed. At least once every minute the driver hit the honk. I was so exhausted that despite the torturous conditions I managed to fall asleep for 4-5 hours. Mine was suffering though. She hated it and at the end of the ride, we arrived in Varanasi at 8 am, exhausted and not rested at all. Here’s a lesson I never seem to learn: A night bus or train saves you almost nothing because you will need at least half a day to a day to rest from the overnight trip.
Where we stayed at
goStops Hostel Varanasi: After our bumpy ride, we three girls squeezed into a tuk-tuk, me sitting next to the driver, en route to our hostel. GoStops is a decent hostel, 15 minutes walk away from the Ghats. Mine and I booked a private room, which was clean, yet humid and super cold. Upon request, we received extra thick blankets and even a space heater. The staff was a bit slow, yet helpful and attentive. The tours they offered were cheap and a great way to discover Varanasi.
After arriving at the hostel, we dropped off our bags and tried to find a nice place for breakfast and coffee. After countless walk-ins and walk-outs, trying horrendous tasting coffees, we gave up and returned to the hostel to rest a bit. We fell asleep instantly, in the hopes to wake up for the evening Ghat Boat Tour at 4 pm. But since we are no spring chickens anymore, we slept until 5 pm and the only highlight on our first day was having dinner at the Ghats.
Where and what we ate
Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe
Pizzeria Vaatika Cafe: This was the choice for our first night in Varanasi. Overlooking the infamous Assi Ghat, next to the river Ganga, this place with a riverside patio offers a wide range of pizzas and pasta plus Indian cuisine. After the Eggs Benedict debacle in Delhi, I stuck with Indian food and ordered Paneer Butter Masala with a side of garlic naan. It was simple and delicious. The service was quite alright, the location is the selling point here.
Brown Bread Bakery: This place was highly recommended by tour and travel guides. It distinguishes itself by offering organic fresh bread and food. The bread was amazing, fresh, warm, and delicious. They also have a selection of cheese and cereals. We came here for breakfast and ordered the open buffet, plus eggs, coffee, and juice. The price and quality are unbeatable.
Mark’s Cafe - Diner: Determined to find decent coffee, Mine navigated us to this place. Bingo! This place had fantastic, espresso coffee, and good food options as well. On our first visit we learned that this place is a 100% non-profit community-cafe that supports a pedicab community of underprivileged workers at Assi Ghat, Varanasi. We came here every day, sometimes twice a day. The staff is super nice and attentive. Only in this place I saw a woman working. Everywhere else I went the servers, host and cooks were men.
Bati Chokha: This was recommended by one of our tour guides. The restaurant was family-owned and empty when we arrived. Since we came here after visiting the cremation ghats, Mine’s stomach was already turned upside down. She went to the bathroom and came back pale like a ghost. The facilities were super gross, she reported. I wanted to leave immediately, but Mine insisted we eat. Not to my surprise, the food was also not my taste. Baati is a hard, unleavened bread. It is prized for its long shelf life and high nutritional content, and, in desert areas, for the minimal quantity of water required for its preparation. I didn’t care so much for hard, spiceless bread. I tried it and don’t have to again tbh.
Bati Chokha
Kashi Chat Bhandar: Now this was a place I would highly recommend. A small restaurant, full of locals, eating authentic, delicious, and cheap Indian dishes. For less than 30 cents you can get a fulfilling plate of puri, samosas, chat, and many more. The place is small and food moves fast here. So come, sit, eat and leave.
Netaji Paan Bhandar: Paan is a preparation combining betel leaf with areca nut widely consumed in the Indian subcontinent. It is chewed for its stimulant and psychoactive effects. After chewing it is either spat out or swallowed. Paan has many variations and is served folded into a triangle or rolled. It dates to ancient times and originated in India. There are several general types of paan, including meetha (sweet) paan and tambaku (tobacco) paan; the latter contains chewing tobacco.
On one of our tours, we stopped by this paan shop. I usually try all kinds of food, but I’m very careful with psychedelics. Although they offered the sweet version with no tobacco or awareness-altering ingredient, I passed on this one. Soi, one of the girls I was traveling with, tried the sweet, fiery version (literally! The paan was lit up.) and gave a thumbs up at the end of her chewing and swallowing the whole thing in one go.
Blue Lassi Shop: This place, situated in one of the numerous gullies and alleys of Varanasi, is very famous for its variety of delicious lassis. Lassi is a popular traditional Dahi (yogurt)-based drink that originated in the Indian subcontinent. Lassi is a blend of yogurt, water, spices, and sometimes fruit.
After walking through the textile and food market we arrived here for supper. I chose the saffron-nut mix lassi, whereas the others all went with the all-fruit lassi. I tried both of the variations and they were incredibly good. The owner/chef is super chill, despite the masses flocking here (evenings are quiet though). He turned up for us, blasting hip-hop songs while we enjoyed his creations.
What we did and saw
Sunrise Boat Tour: When you come to Varanasi, you’ll have to do a sunrise boat tour on the Ganga river. We booked ours through our hostel. Around 5 am we gathered at the front desk and our tour guide and captain for the day, Babu, picked us up to walk us through the many alleys of Varanasi to the Ghats. The walk at dawn is magical. The city is still asleep with the exception of a few people.
Once we arrived at the Jain Ghat and found our boat, we headed first to the Assi Ghat, where the daily morning Hindu ceremony takes place. Every early morning (and evening) devotees pay their respect to Mother Ganga and Lord Shiva by chanting, praying, and performing a fire dance. The level of devotion is so impressive that you don’t want to miss out on this.
After the ceremony, we headed back out to the water and rode along the Ganga. The sun did not come out fully on that day but for one little instance, it showed itself to us. At that second our captain and guide quickly (and silently) greeted the warm light with three simple salutations - his hands pressed in prayer position moved up and down in front of his face. This simple yet powerful gesture of gratitude and admiration of nature was inspiring.
While riding along the Ganga we witnessed the waking up of the city. The mist, the city backdrop, the many different Ghats, where people take their baths in the holy waters, brush their teeth, wash their clothes, all created a magical, colorful picture. It is not something you see every day.
Evening Ghat Tour: This is similar to the sunrise boat tour, except that you get to see the cremation sites up close (and watch for a while). We started after sundown, at dusk. The lights, thus the atmosphere, are completely different. First, we sailed along the river and enjoyed the view. Then we approached the busiest cremation ghat. Our guides warned and urged us not to take any pictures out of respect. I thought this comes without saying, yet I saw a couple of people in other boats raising their cameras and taking photos, some even with flash and no intention of being discreet about it. Smfh.
I watched the site for a couple of minutes with my face mask on and then bowed my head due to the intensity. What you can expect to see are dead bodies wrapped in white clothes and colorful scarves. First, they bring the body to the river and dip it into the holy water. Then the body will be brought to the designated cremation station, laid on a pile of wood, where rose water is sprinkled all over the body - that is why it doesn’t smell like burned flesh. When the relatives are ready the burning process starts. Interesting custom: No women are allowed at the cremation sites because they get “too emotional”. Bodies are supposed to be sent away into the next realm (hopefully Nirvana) in a positive and happy manner because dying means you reach the next level. It is believed that if you cry or become upset, you could jeopardize the transition. Although I understood the philosophy, this was another example of seeing women (and men, as the matter of fact) in a very limiting and stereotypical way. Especially here in India, I found women to be very strong individuals.
During the tour, we also got to see the evening Ganga Aarti ceremony at Dasawamedha Ghat. Hundreds of pilgrims, photographers, and tourists watch the magnificence of the Aarti ceremony as it unfolds. Lamps are lit, fragrant smoke rises from incense sticks, and the chants of mantras can be heard. Fire is offered to Lord Shiva and the Ganges River and is used as a link between this world and the spirit world.
Fair warning: Once you are in front of the Ghat, other boats will join you, and soon you’ll be caged in. There is no sneaking out, so you have to stick around.
During the ceremony, we were able to buy a candle with flower petals around it in order to release it on the Ganga river, as an offering to the gods and to wish for peace and health. You hold the little plate with the candle with both hands, light it up, circle it in front of your face five times, and put it on the water. My candle almost did not make it due to the many boats around us, but soon I saw it floating away.
Food Tour: I highly recommend taking a tour guide to try the street food in Varanasi. I would have never found the gems our guide brought us to if it weren’t for him. We started at Kashi Chat Bhandar, walked through the narrow food market, ate fresh naans from a traditional oven (a tube-shaped oven, where you stick the bread on the side walls), Netaji Paan Bhandar, and last but not least ended the tour at the infamous Blue Lassi Shop. Netaji Paan BhandarSee above at “Where we ate” for details.
Temple Tour: If you want to know more about the temples in Varanasi, especially the Hindu religion itself, a temple tour is a good way to start. We started at Shri Durga Temple, a red temple in honor of Goddess Durga, who combats evil and demonic forces that threaten peace, prosperity, and Dharma (“right way of living”). She represents the power of good over evil. Secondly, we visited the Tulsi Manas Mandir, which houses many paintings along its walls, explaining the legends behind Lord Shiva, Goddess Durga, and many more. After we walked over to Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple, which is dedicated to the Hindu God Hanuman, an ardent devotee of Rama. Beware here of the free-moving monkeys. The last temple on the tour was the Tridev Temple. The shrine is dedicated to three deities (gods); Salasar Hanuman Bhagwan, Dadi rani Sati Devi, and Khatu Ji Maharaj. It also houses a candle, which is burning for 13 years, in the name of the holy spirits.
Walk around the alleys and Ghats: This was my favorite activity. Walking around with no destination, just take it in, observe life, watch locals as they do their daily routine, and document. From bulls (beware!), goats to stray dogs, school kids to women in beautiful saris, tuk-tuks to donkeys.
Be aware of the fake Sadhus around the Ghats. They claim to be holy persons of Hinduism, known for having renounced worldly life. In real they avoid contact with everything worldly aka they would not ask you if you want to take a picture with them and ask for money afterward. Neither would they dress up in over-the-top costumes (many necklaces, extensive make-up, and accessories. Sadhus are dressed modestly and simple, most a saffron- or white-colored cloth around the hip and a long scarf around the upper body. They reside close to the cremation sides next to the Ganga and are relying on donations for food.
Varanasi’s infrastructure is super modest and it feels like you are thrown back in time. There are no pedestrian ways, you simply walk on one street, sharing it with cars, tuk-tuks, kettle, donkeys, and dogs.
At first I did not feel the cultural shock everybody, even Indians, proclaimed. After all, noise, trash, the different attitudes of its people were not unfamiliar experiences to me. But after we left the city, I felt it. The unconventional ways, the different levels of noise, the simplicity, the density of culture left an imprint. Visually, socially and culturally, Varanasi is one of the most striking and authentic places on earth. The level of devotion to religion, to a pre-constructed system of social stratification, is unparalleled to everything I’ve seen so far. I definitely want to come back here and experience it a bit more - as a photographer and as a human.
